Most people that I know, hardly know what Lithuania is or more importantly, where it is. Well, I have to write this entry to do the country justice. Lithuania has been run over more times than a dead squirrel on the New York State Thruway. It's been a constant battleground dating back over 1000 years. The Teutonic Knights were the first to invade, but were crushed and left the country (and therefore Lithuania was the last European country to adopt Christianity). Ironically, nowadays the Lithuania people are very religious, devout Catholics.
In the 1500s, Lithuania was the largest country in Eastern Europe, consisting of Belarus,. Ukraine, and parts of Poland and Russia (now it's about the size of New Jersey). About a couple hundred years later, the Lublin Union was created, which in reality was a Commonwealth including Poland. This lasted for over 200 years.
After the Union was dismantled, it left Lithuania prone to attack and it was promptly invaded (the first time) by Russia. This lasted until 1918, in which after WWI, Lithuania once again declared itself independent. However, this didn't last long. During WWII, the Russians came, yet again. Oh, and then the Germans. But by 1944, the Soviets came back for a third time! They stuck around after the war, thrusting the country into unwanted dictatorship by Joseph Stalin (during which this author's family were sent to Siberia, to the gulags). The Soviets shifted people from country to country to created confusion. If the people spoke different languages, how could they organize an uprising? They also took priests, the wealthy and educated away. Very effective and very cruel, it tore families apart.
Shift to forty more years into the future. Lithuania was at the forefront of the Soviet dismantling. In 1990, they were the first SSR (or satellite) to declare their independence. The final stance was when peaceful demonstrators at the Vilnius (the capital city) TV tower were killed (they were unarmed). However, this time... the World was watching. This prompted Mikhail Gorbachev to cut his losses and dominoes started falling.
The next and surely not last part of this little country's history is when they joined the European Union in 2004. They were admitted with the other two Baltic Nations, Latvia to the north and Estonian above Latvia.
Well, now that you know a bit of history, let's get to the fun stuff. The seaside! Palanga is a town that sits on the Baltic Sea, roughly an hour and half north of Kaliningrad (a broken-off part of Russia which doesn't connect to the main country). It's east of Belarus, Poland is to the extreme south, and Latvia, as you know to the north.
Palanga is famous for a few things, the beach and what washes on the beach during large storms-- amber. The semi-precious material is in abundance here and can be bought at much better prices than you could buy it in the USA/UK.
Palanga is an amazing town, with "scrub pines" (Paul, my friend coined this) dotting the half mile or so, to the beach from town. These trees are all thirty feet or so high, and don't get any bigger because of the constant sea breeze and brutal winters. It's a really amazing sight, walking down the paths that lead to the beach. If you didn't know that the sea was there, you'd think you were walking through a forest!
The beach itself is your typical sandy beach, bespeckled with changing cubicles, bars and cafes (that line the path to the beach). There's no open container laws here, which is nice, if you're used to Long Island where it's strictly prohibited. The water is usually cold... remember, you're really far north here! The air temps typically hover in the mid-seventies Fahrenheit (or low twenties in Centigrade). Sometimes it gets warmer, but rarely does it get to 85 or 90.
There is also a large pier here that stretches out almost a mile into the sea. This is a popular spot to hang out, ride a bike, walk, or try your luck catching some fish (which a local specialty is smoked fish). I am not a fan of smoked fish, so I gave it a miss. Okay, so far it's not like the Jersey Shore, right? Wrong.
There is a more lively side that resembles a boardwalk, but is just a pedestrianized street (which leads from town to the sea) called J. Basanavičius. This street was named after a national hero, Jonas Basanavičius, who is accredited with preserving the Lithuanian culture, which ultimately led to their independence in 1918).
Cafes, bars, kiosks selling everything from amber to trinkets and clothing are everywhere on this street. Also present here are your usual carnival games and rides. I tested my endurance on a spinning ride that promised 4Gs. Trust me, I am seasoned ride junkie, (I am telling you this thing was serious). The one thing that's noticeably different than Wildwood, NJ is the presence of families and a real lack of riff-raff that you'd find in Seaside Heights or Atlantic City. This makes it a very safe place for all to enjoy. It's typically frequented by Latvians, Estonians, Russians, Poles, and Lithuanians. I did not see many, if any, English speaking people. However, most of the younger generation are fluent in English (learning English is now compulsory in school). Perhaps these tourist habits will change?
The prices:
My family and I rented out a large flat that slept six for roughly $200 for two nights. A steal. Try to find a bargain like that in the USA (one without roaches, I mean). Food is very inexpensive too. Their diet consists of mostly cabbage, potatoes, pork and chicken dishes. All are incredibly tasty. Try a cepelinai (or zeppelin, which is mashed potatoes, stuffed then fried with meat or cheese in the inside). Your typical main course at a local nice-ish restaurant will run you in the neighborhood of $10. Not bad at all. However, eating here, like in most European countries is an unhurried time to relax, take in the scenery and enjoy the company you're with. If you want fast food, get a Turkish kebab at any of the many kiosks in town, or perhaps a hot dog? Beers are also strong, good and cheap. Your average beer is roughly $2 (for 50cl) or if you're brave, get a full litre for $3.50-4.00.
Pizza crazy nation? Yes. Unbelievably pizza is very popular with Lithuanians, and it's actually of very good quality. It's along the lines of an Italian pie and nothing like Pizza Hut, Uno, or a NY slice (my favorite). The oddity is what they do to the pizza once it arrives at their table. Ketchup, yes ketchup is a popular topping that they drown the pies in (after it's cooked). The also like to blend the ketchup with Heinz's Garlic Sauce. Heinz makes all sorts of sauces for different markets. Chances are, you have never seen it. They also have Mexican Ketchup (Heinz, too). I admit, I tried the ketchup thing. However, I only thought it was bearable once the slice had gone cold. The best chains that I have eaten at are either Pizza Jazz or Čili Pica (Chili Pizza). I would recommend either to anyone. They are both national chains, so you can find them in any of the larger cities or towns.
We ate at a restaurant called de Cuba, which was amazingly decorated. The pizza was good, and I will not go into a full review because I cannot review a place just on a pizza. However, the grounds and the restaurant itself are worthy of any high-class place, anywhere! Day beds (the wicker ones) and a ton of outdoor seating are present here. The fountain that is choreographed to music is a sight as well. The inside is a Latin motif, however the menu isn't (oddly). I was kind of hoping to chow on some authentic Cuban food, but was sorely let down.
If you want to go to Lithuania, it's a bit of a hassle to get to from the United States. You will typically have to fly through the UK, Poland, Czech Republic or Finland to get there (and this can be expensive). However, four-star properties in Vilnius (which I won't review due to it being reviewed everywhere else) can be had for $150-200. Not bad for a top-notch hotel. In London or Paris it would triple that. If you're thinking of visiting, skip Kaunas (the second largest city), which is nice, but a little shabby and run down. Center in on Vilnius, Klaipeda, and Palanga (and/or Nida--the other sea town, which is more sleepy than Palanga). If any of you are interested in visiting, I'd be happy to fill you in on more information about this subject, just write me.
One final point to make about Lithuanians and one of their passions (or second religion as they call it). When you think of basketball, I am sure for most of you, the NBA comes to mind. Well, in this little country, they're basketball crazy. No matter where you travel throughout the country, from countryside to urban jungle you see hoops everywhere. This is all due to Pranas Lubinas (Frank Lubin). Frank was a guy born in Los Angeles, who's parents came from Lithuania. He eventually returned to the country and helped represent them in the '36 Berlin Games. They also won two European titles after in '37 and '39 which solidified their love for the sport. He is called "The Grandfather of Lithuanian Basketball."
Today, the sport is widely played by young and old alike. It is also played professionally with the country having two teams in the European Professional League, BC Žalgiris (from Kaunas) is the team with the best record throughout history, and secondly the Vilnius based team, BC „Lietuvos Rytas“ who are their bitter rivals.
In addition to the pro teams, their National Team is also widely respected. They've won several medals and are frequently in the top three in international tournaments. Not bad for a country of three million people, eh? Grateful Dead fans, take note of this fact. Leading up to the 1992 Olympics in Barcelona, the team had funding issues (seeing as the country just broke away from the Soviet Union two year before). They almost couldn't afford to make the trip! Step in Jerry Garcia, who pledged money to help the team get there, and it culminated with the team winning a Bronze Medal! The Dead sold tie-dyed shirts with "Lithuania" on the front and all of the proceeds (or profits) went to the team. I wish I still had mine, as they're worth a pretty penny now. Oh well, you can't save everything! The country is hosting the Eurobasket 2011 competition this fall, which will be held in arenas throughout the country.
Well, that's it for now. It is my hope that your learned a little bit about this tiny country. Next post will be about a couple South Jersey watering holes/casual restaurants! Take care folks.
Lithuanian National Tourism Office
Palanga Tourist Guide
de Cuba restaurant/bar/cafe
In the 1500s, Lithuania was the largest country in Eastern Europe, consisting of Belarus,. Ukraine, and parts of Poland and Russia (now it's about the size of New Jersey). About a couple hundred years later, the Lublin Union was created, which in reality was a Commonwealth including Poland. This lasted for over 200 years.
After the Union was dismantled, it left Lithuania prone to attack and it was promptly invaded (the first time) by Russia. This lasted until 1918, in which after WWI, Lithuania once again declared itself independent. However, this didn't last long. During WWII, the Russians came, yet again. Oh, and then the Germans. But by 1944, the Soviets came back for a third time! They stuck around after the war, thrusting the country into unwanted dictatorship by Joseph Stalin (during which this author's family were sent to Siberia, to the gulags). The Soviets shifted people from country to country to created confusion. If the people spoke different languages, how could they organize an uprising? They also took priests, the wealthy and educated away. Very effective and very cruel, it tore families apart.
Shift to forty more years into the future. Lithuania was at the forefront of the Soviet dismantling. In 1990, they were the first SSR (or satellite) to declare their independence. The final stance was when peaceful demonstrators at the Vilnius (the capital city) TV tower were killed (they were unarmed). However, this time... the World was watching. This prompted Mikhail Gorbachev to cut his losses and dominoes started falling.
The next and surely not last part of this little country's history is when they joined the European Union in 2004. They were admitted with the other two Baltic Nations, Latvia to the north and Estonian above Latvia.
Well, now that you know a bit of history, let's get to the fun stuff. The seaside! Palanga is a town that sits on the Baltic Sea, roughly an hour and half north of Kaliningrad (a broken-off part of Russia which doesn't connect to the main country). It's east of Belarus, Poland is to the extreme south, and Latvia, as you know to the north.
Palanga is famous for a few things, the beach and what washes on the beach during large storms-- amber. The semi-precious material is in abundance here and can be bought at much better prices than you could buy it in the USA/UK.
Palanga is an amazing town, with "scrub pines" (Paul, my friend coined this) dotting the half mile or so, to the beach from town. These trees are all thirty feet or so high, and don't get any bigger because of the constant sea breeze and brutal winters. It's a really amazing sight, walking down the paths that lead to the beach. If you didn't know that the sea was there, you'd think you were walking through a forest!
The beach itself is your typical sandy beach, bespeckled with changing cubicles, bars and cafes (that line the path to the beach). There's no open container laws here, which is nice, if you're used to Long Island where it's strictly prohibited. The water is usually cold... remember, you're really far north here! The air temps typically hover in the mid-seventies Fahrenheit (or low twenties in Centigrade). Sometimes it gets warmer, but rarely does it get to 85 or 90.
There is also a large pier here that stretches out almost a mile into the sea. This is a popular spot to hang out, ride a bike, walk, or try your luck catching some fish (which a local specialty is smoked fish). I am not a fan of smoked fish, so I gave it a miss. Okay, so far it's not like the Jersey Shore, right? Wrong.
There is a more lively side that resembles a boardwalk, but is just a pedestrianized street (which leads from town to the sea) called J. Basanavičius. This street was named after a national hero, Jonas Basanavičius, who is accredited with preserving the Lithuanian culture, which ultimately led to their independence in 1918).
Cafes, bars, kiosks selling everything from amber to trinkets and clothing are everywhere on this street. Also present here are your usual carnival games and rides. I tested my endurance on a spinning ride that promised 4Gs. Trust me, I am seasoned ride junkie, (I am telling you this thing was serious). The one thing that's noticeably different than Wildwood, NJ is the presence of families and a real lack of riff-raff that you'd find in Seaside Heights or Atlantic City. This makes it a very safe place for all to enjoy. It's typically frequented by Latvians, Estonians, Russians, Poles, and Lithuanians. I did not see many, if any, English speaking people. However, most of the younger generation are fluent in English (learning English is now compulsory in school). Perhaps these tourist habits will change?
The prices:
My family and I rented out a large flat that slept six for roughly $200 for two nights. A steal. Try to find a bargain like that in the USA (one without roaches, I mean). Food is very inexpensive too. Their diet consists of mostly cabbage, potatoes, pork and chicken dishes. All are incredibly tasty. Try a cepelinai (or zeppelin, which is mashed potatoes, stuffed then fried with meat or cheese in the inside). Your typical main course at a local nice-ish restaurant will run you in the neighborhood of $10. Not bad at all. However, eating here, like in most European countries is an unhurried time to relax, take in the scenery and enjoy the company you're with. If you want fast food, get a Turkish kebab at any of the many kiosks in town, or perhaps a hot dog? Beers are also strong, good and cheap. Your average beer is roughly $2 (for 50cl) or if you're brave, get a full litre for $3.50-4.00.
Pizza crazy nation? Yes. Unbelievably pizza is very popular with Lithuanians, and it's actually of very good quality. It's along the lines of an Italian pie and nothing like Pizza Hut, Uno, or a NY slice (my favorite). The oddity is what they do to the pizza once it arrives at their table. Ketchup, yes ketchup is a popular topping that they drown the pies in (after it's cooked). The also like to blend the ketchup with Heinz's Garlic Sauce. Heinz makes all sorts of sauces for different markets. Chances are, you have never seen it. They also have Mexican Ketchup (Heinz, too). I admit, I tried the ketchup thing. However, I only thought it was bearable once the slice had gone cold. The best chains that I have eaten at are either Pizza Jazz or Čili Pica (Chili Pizza). I would recommend either to anyone. They are both national chains, so you can find them in any of the larger cities or towns.
We ate at a restaurant called de Cuba, which was amazingly decorated. The pizza was good, and I will not go into a full review because I cannot review a place just on a pizza. However, the grounds and the restaurant itself are worthy of any high-class place, anywhere! Day beds (the wicker ones) and a ton of outdoor seating are present here. The fountain that is choreographed to music is a sight as well. The inside is a Latin motif, however the menu isn't (oddly). I was kind of hoping to chow on some authentic Cuban food, but was sorely let down.
If you want to go to Lithuania, it's a bit of a hassle to get to from the United States. You will typically have to fly through the UK, Poland, Czech Republic or Finland to get there (and this can be expensive). However, four-star properties in Vilnius (which I won't review due to it being reviewed everywhere else) can be had for $150-200. Not bad for a top-notch hotel. In London or Paris it would triple that. If you're thinking of visiting, skip Kaunas (the second largest city), which is nice, but a little shabby and run down. Center in on Vilnius, Klaipeda, and Palanga (and/or Nida--the other sea town, which is more sleepy than Palanga). If any of you are interested in visiting, I'd be happy to fill you in on more information about this subject, just write me.
One final point to make about Lithuanians and one of their passions (or second religion as they call it). When you think of basketball, I am sure for most of you, the NBA comes to mind. Well, in this little country, they're basketball crazy. No matter where you travel throughout the country, from countryside to urban jungle you see hoops everywhere. This is all due to Pranas Lubinas (Frank Lubin). Frank was a guy born in Los Angeles, who's parents came from Lithuania. He eventually returned to the country and helped represent them in the '36 Berlin Games. They also won two European titles after in '37 and '39 which solidified their love for the sport. He is called "The Grandfather of Lithuanian Basketball."
Today, the sport is widely played by young and old alike. It is also played professionally with the country having two teams in the European Professional League, BC Žalgiris (from Kaunas) is the team with the best record throughout history, and secondly the Vilnius based team, BC „Lietuvos Rytas“ who are their bitter rivals.
In addition to the pro teams, their National Team is also widely respected. They've won several medals and are frequently in the top three in international tournaments. Not bad for a country of three million people, eh? Grateful Dead fans, take note of this fact. Leading up to the 1992 Olympics in Barcelona, the team had funding issues (seeing as the country just broke away from the Soviet Union two year before). They almost couldn't afford to make the trip! Step in Jerry Garcia, who pledged money to help the team get there, and it culminated with the team winning a Bronze Medal! The Dead sold tie-dyed shirts with "Lithuania" on the front and all of the proceeds (or profits) went to the team. I wish I still had mine, as they're worth a pretty penny now. Oh well, you can't save everything! The country is hosting the Eurobasket 2011 competition this fall, which will be held in arenas throughout the country.
Well, that's it for now. It is my hope that your learned a little bit about this tiny country. Next post will be about a couple South Jersey watering holes/casual restaurants! Take care folks.
Lithuanian National Tourism Office
Palanga Tourist Guide
de Cuba restaurant/bar/cafe
Great writing Al. I feel more informed and familiar with the area after reading. I wonder what the Gluten Free diner could do to travel there?
ReplyDeleteThanks, Jeff. I am sure doing GF wouldn't be hard. If you avoided the bread, you'd be fine. Potatoes are GF, right? She could get by, I am certain of it. People are becoming more aware of that disease nowadays. They also have loads of veggies in the Summer.
ReplyDeleteCool post Al! I must admit that I am one of the people who didn't know much about Lithuania, so I found this really interesting. One question though, what brought you there?
ReplyDeleteI have family (cousins) that I visit there. This was my fourth trip there overall. I have added another bit onto the end (or will do in a minute rather). It's a passion of theirs.
ReplyDelete