Pub #4, The Market Porter, London Bridge/Borough Market area.

The Market Porter is famous for a couple reasons.  For one, it's been in a Harry Potter film.  Secondly and more importantly it's open at 6am.  The reason why it opens so early is because Borough Market is across the street.  Borough Market is a fantastical foodie's dream.  Gourmet everything.  If you want it, and it's not here, it's not in London!  Each stall (think Reading Market in Philly) has a specialty, whether that be beer, wine, cheese, meat, etc.  This market resembles something you might find in Paris or Antwerp, delicious.  This area is also unique in which that you can walk around with an alcoholic beverage without fear of getting into trouble with constables (just stay around the market).

The Market Porter opens very early to cater to the delivery people that come in the wee hours to set up each stall.  These guys generally come from the New Covent Garden Veg Market, Billingsgate Fish Market, or Smithfields Meat Market.  Each are huge hubs (actually each are owned by the City of London) for suppliers to sell wholesale to market traders and restaurants.  These guys are up all night and all they want is a pint!  Cue The Market Porter (I felt it was necessary to tell you the history, it's a key fact of why the pub exists).

The Porter has around 30 or so taps and the majority are real ales and aged ciders.  I opted for a couple different ciders, one that stood out was the Weston's Scrumpy.  The pub is split between two large rooms.  The bar can get very crowded at times, usually the worst time is the evening rush (as the Cityboys heading home from the office go to London Bridge to catch their trains into the suburbs).  However, there's a light at the end of the tunnel.  There is a large area outside and across the street that drinking is tolerated (not in the street itself, that still has a small amount of traffic on it).  So find a bench, or nuzzle up to a standing table (wooden barrel) and drink away!

While I have never eaten at the Porter, there is a really nice stall just near it.  On the same side of the street, if you come from the Southwark Tavern, you will see a place called "Posh Banger Boys."  This is a takeaway establishment (which has limited seating), but you can always send your mate over and hold his/her beer!  The prices are spot on, and the quality is very good.  You guessed it, the sausages come from the market!  That's why they're so good.  They also have chicken and serve burgers too.  I recommend this place highly.

So, things to do around here?  Go to Vinopolis, a museum for wine.  They take you through a tour and depending on how much you spend, you get to drink as much accordingly.  It tutors you through the art of making wine and tasting wine.  Opt for the absinthe and scotch portions of the tour.  :)

The London Dungeon, skip it... it's a waste of time and money (go to DisneyWorld if you want that crap).

The Golden Hind, a replica of Sir Francis Drake's ship is worth a look and a picture from the outside, don't opt to go in.

The Globe Theatre is also close (Shakespeare's Theatre has been recreated with performances in the Summer months.

The best advice I can give in this area is to just walk along the South Bank.  You will see so many landmarks that you know, it's priceless (well, free actually!).  Make sure not to miss the Tate Modern Art Museum, it rivals any museum, anywhere.

Well, that's it for London, this time.  More on the next trip folks!  Hope you enjoyed my writing.  Lithuania beckons... but I have written enough for today.

Cheers!

-Al

The Market Porter

Posh Banger Boys

Pub #3, The Southwark Tavern, London Bridge/Borough High Street.

The Southwark (Su-thark, not South-wark) Tavern and The Market Porter are two pubs that are near and dear to me.  Mainly because I like what they offer and they used to be regular haunts for me when I lived in Southeastern London (Lewisham).  I began frequenting these pubs because they are adjacent London Bridge, which is a main transportation hub on the South Bank (rail, buses and Tube).  Therefore, if you go to London, these two will be quite easily reached from the central part of the city.

After arriving from Lithuania via Helsinki, I knew that time was tight.  Immigration always takes longer when a flight from some two-bit country lands right near your time slot.  This was the case, and it took me an hour to get through it.  I literally had no time as I was supposed to meet my friend Darryl for dinner at 6pm.  RUN!

After I cut clear across the city and got back down to London Bridge, it was twenty-five to six.  Not too bad, apparently it took Darryl longer as well and he'd only been sitting for about five minutes.  I like the Southwark because it's got a great wine list (from Mendoza, OZ, NZ, France, and not many/ if any USA?), and usually some rare beers that you don't usually see in London.  For instance, on this occasion, Brooklyn Lager was offered.  Do you know how much I would have killed for one of them when I lived in London?  Believe me... I would have.

The pub is split into an upstairs, when the bar is and dungeon-like basement area that makes you feel like your in one of the oldest cities in the World (you are!).  There are tables upstairs and downstairs.  Darryl chose what I think was the hottest damn part of the pub to sit in... I think we were directly over the kitchen.  I would have chose one of the outside tables (on the sidewalk), but because it was a nice day, they were full up.

Also joining us were Aisling and Justin, who were running late for some reason.  You can never depend on London Tranport, it's so old and it breaks down all of the time.  So, Darryl and I ordered some drinks.  I had a cider (see a trend here) and he had a Früli, a strawberry beer from Belgium-- they're very tasty in short doses.  I always chose cider whilst in England because it's so far superior to our crappy domestic ones.  I wish someone would import them.  However, this pub also has real ales (think cask aged, served cool, not cold).

When the guys finally joined us, Darryl and I were chomping at the bit to order.  The Southwark is also a gastropub, but one that I can vouch for personally.  Aisling had eaten already, but Justin hadn't.  Darryl ordered his usual West Country beef burger, which was topped with bacon, cheddar cheese, lettuce and tomato and served with chips (fries).  Justin and I both wanted the fried haddock with mushy minted peas and chips (served with homemade tartare sauce).  However, we were told that only one portion was available (meaning it's fresh, yay!).  Justin bowed to my plea that I hadn't yet had it during my visit and that I'd really like the fish (he's a good man, let me tell ya!).  He instead ordered Gloucester Old Spot (a type of pig) bangers and crushed pea mash, served with red onion gravy.

We all chatted and talked (e.g. drank) the time way until our food was served.  The service came in a timely manner considering how busy the pub was.

Darryl's burger came and was nicely presented with parchment around the actual burger and the chips were run of the mill, but good.  He stated that he always enjoyed the burgers here, I can see why!  Justin's order of bangers and mash looked delicious, the gravy was obviously homemade with chunks of onion left in it.  He also enjoyed his meal and remarked that the combination of mashed potato with the peas was really nice.  I think I'll be incorporating that into my recipes at home!  My fish and chips dish was just what I needed.  A foot long chunk of fresh haddock fried golden brown in beer batter.  The minted mushy (marrowfat) peas were an assault on my senses a new twist on an old favorite.  Another tip I will be taking with me.  The tartare sauce was homemade and also nice.  The chips, like I said before, were standard, yet good.  We all enjoyed each meal, which is why I always try to visit the Southwark when I visit London (it also brings back old memories).

The menus from the Alwyne and Southwark are almost identical (at a closer look on each respectful website, it appears they have the same owner).  However, the quality food at the Southwark is far superior and as time has told, it hasn't changed at all since the day I left.  If you're in the area, stop by and have a pint and some dinner.  It's a great dependable pub that never lets you down.  Also, my next post, will incorporate some things to see around the area as well (so why not make a day of it?).  The Market Porter will have it's own post, if you're wondering why I didn't write about it.

The Southwark Tavern

Pub #2, The Alwyne Castle, Islington, London

Well,
Most of my friends know that I live to indulge in the liquids department on weekends (sometimes on weekdays).  We visited this pub after a concert on Saturday evening.  That took place in Hyde Park and was an all day affair, so let's just say, neither Justin or I were feeling 100%.  We awoke around noontime by Aisling calling (yes, same one from the other post) us asking if we'd like to go down for a Sunday "lunch."  We said that we would indeed!

A "Sunday Lunch" is also a very important part of British culture (when I say British I mean all of the parts as a whole-- you need to understand there are separate countries within the Union).  Even if you eat around 5 or 6pm, it's still called Sunday Lunch.  I know, it's odd... but that's tradition.  I guess it was traditionally served during the daylight hours.  It is also called the same thing if someone cooks it at home.  Okay, tutorial aside, let's get into the subject matter, the pub.

The Alwyne Castle is located in a fairly busy part of Islington, a North London Borough (London has thirty-two as opposed to NYC's five).   Islington is an area for young professionals and because of this, it's a hip place to live and hang.  Angel is another nice area within Islington (if you ever want to go out in London, this is a safe bet!).  Because of the locale, the establishments in the area are more upmarket than some other areas in London, but not as high-class as Kensington/Knightsbridge).

We arrived at the pub around 1pm, feeling a bit worse for wear.  Pints?  Sure!  Justin abstained.  Actually I think I may have been the only one on "The Hair of the Dog."  No surprise to my mates anyway.  The pub is a very large and also has a huge beer garden.  There are also many tables out in front of the pub.  We chose to sit outside, as the weather was very pleasant (yes, London does have nice weather....at times).  The interior of the pub consists of three very well appointed rooms (I was told it was recently renovated).  This is your typical "gastropub." 

Gastropub means a pub that goes above and beyond the regular pub fare, adding a culinary twist to those favourite dishes that everyone enjoys so much.  So, I went into the situation expecting something outstanding.  The pub has a nice drinks selection, it appeared that they also had a decent wine list, which is another sign of a gastropub.

After a bit on pondering, and the lack of lamb on the menu, I ordered beef. No lamb, yet again...   The Alwyne tries to use ingredients which are in-season which promotes fresh food, as well as a better environment (not shipping that vegetable across the planet = less carbon emissions).  Justin ordered the same and Aisling ordered the Baked Cornish (from Cornwall) Brie and Mushroom Wellington.  This of it like Beef Wellington minus the meat.  All mains come with roasted potatoes, a Yorkshire Pudding, broccoli and carrots.

"High hopes, we've got high hopes..."   My meal came, brilliantly presented, piled high with the "Yorkie" on top.  This created a mountain of food.  I am used to British beef, I actually like it, grass-fed and free from hormones (yeah, we charge extra for that in the USA).  The beef was okay, not tough, but cooked too long for my preference.  I was surprised when I ordered it that they didn't ask how I wanted it cooked.  Well done = taking all the fun out of meat.  The gravy was homemade, that's a plus.  The Yorkie was huge!  Done nicely, textbook Yorkie.  I looked on their website and it says one person is in charge of them on Sundays, give that chef a raise! 

Now, please shoot the chef in charge of the veg.  The carrots and broccoli were pretty much on the verge of mush.  Cooked any longer and I think that they would have melted away in the pot.  Perhaps people that eat there like them this way?  I can't be sure, but it also cooks out any nutritional value that might have been ingested.  The roast potatoes were seasoned nicely, with a simple combination of salt and pepper.  I have to admit, my roasties are miles better.  I could teach the chef a thing or two.  They were edible, but far from the best I've eaten (if you would like the recipe, just ask).

Aisling, from the looks of things, didn't really get into her dish, leaving the majority of it on her plate.  I chalked that up to her going out the night before, rather than not enjoy her meal.  It did sound interesting, I wish I had asked her to try it.   

So, in summary.  This pub is recommended by me, for a beautiful place to enjoy a nice Summer's day or check out a match on the tele.  If I return (which is quite likely), I will keep things simple and order a burger, or plain steak.  That will ensure I get exactly what I want.  It's not a bad pub, it just needs a little more pizzazz, which should remedy the issues I experienced.  I know my friends will be returning and I will always ask a local's advice.

Pub Patrol is not over yet.  :) 

The Alwyne Castle   

Pub #1, The Faltering Fullback, Finsbury Park, London

Well, hello again blog readers! As you can see, I have now adjusted from the hell that is jetlag and feel human again.  My most recent trip brought me to London, UK and several parts of Lithuania (which will come in another post soon).

Whenever I visit my old home, London, there is usually one thing on my mind... pubs!  Nowhere like the UK (okay, maybe Ireland) does pubs better.  NYC?  Yeah, right... Australia?  Keep dreaming.  The UK is the birthplace of the Public House.  Therefore, it's a duty of yours, if you visit, to consume food/drink in them.  Pubs are an integral part of British culture, somewhere that it's fine to go at 9am, because they serve coffee and most likely, breakfast!  It's not just a watering hole like people think (NYC/Australia), it's a community center point.  If you miss this, then you aren't really understanding what a pub really stands for.

My trip started on a Wednesday evening.  I planned on cooking some native lamb (I miss it so! :( ), however my mate Justin (Irishman) and other mate Aisling (Ash-ling, an Irish name) usually go to a certain pub called "The Faltering Fullback."  Justin advised me that they'd both be going there. 

"The Fullback" as it's referred to by those that frequent the place, is basically (for those in Albany, NY) an Andy's Sports Bar.  It's a place where tag-rugby players (similar to our flag football) congregate after the match.  As you can imagine, it's bumpin'!

The Fullback is located in the Finsbury Park area, which is along the Victoria and Piccadilly Tube lines in the Northeast portion of London.  It's an okay area, nothing to write home about, but this is where you find the real Londoners, not the poncy transplants from all over that hang around the West End (avoid at all costs!!!!).

The Fullback is literally, huge.  It might have the biggest beer garden in the whole city.  It has double level decking out back with one large room, that is attached to two separate bar areas.  I don't even know how many people were there that night, but it was crazy.  A friend of mine from NJ, Joe joined on our evening out.

Okay, the food.  Now, most of you think of pub food as heavy, with potatoes, etc.  You'd be right, however in this case, this pub serves Thai food.  I am pretty certain that the Landlords of this pub sub-contract out the food portion to a Thai family, that operates the kitchen.  Their food is outstanding, probably along the lines of the some of the best Thai I have even eaten.  The best part?  The price.  You can get a main course for roughly £6.00, which I recommend any of the curries (beware, they're really hot).  I was told that the Pad Thai is amazing, maybe next time...or perhaps a duck dish?

I ordered the Kang Panang Curry.  The flavours blended so perfectly together, that I really didn't even mind the heat.  Each curry comes with an ample amount of white rice to sop up all that goodness. The apps are nice as well, we ordered spring rolls (homemade) and spicy prawn crackers (look it up if you don't know).  All of this for about £12.00 (cheap by London standards).  Beers and ciders are in the  £3.50 range, which is normal for London.   

If you're looking for a cool, down to earth pub with loads of real people... come here.  It's a great place to meet folks and they're all friendly.  The only downside is that it's a bit out of the way.  However, if you ever find yourself going to an Arsenal match, this is a great place to start out at, or go afterwards (Emirates Stadium is quite close).  When I was living in London, I wish I had found this place, it's a real gem and should not be missed. 

More London Pubs to come shortly....

Cheers!

-Al


 The Faltering Fullback

 Their location