Hello there fellow foodies!
Just in case you've been living under a rock somewhere for the last five or so years.... Anthony Bourdain is a chef/travel writer/TV celeb that hosts "No Reservations" and more recently, "The Layover" on the Travel Channel. If you've seen him, you either love him or hate him. He's a typical arrogant New Yorker, but with a softer side at times. He is adventurous, nutty and pushes the limits with eating the unusual and rare. He is also very entertaining to watch and read, I can attest to the reading (if you've not picked up his books). Son of an American dad and French mother, his brother and he spent summers abroad in France with relatives. The NYC native no doubt, picked up the skills that were necessary to open a French restaurant in one of the greatest cities in the World.
A friend asked me to accompany her down to the city one night and we decided to meet some friends there for dinner. This restaurant has been on my radar for quite some time... but usually some other event in the city pulls me away from just a calm evening that includes dinner. So I suggested we go, and everyone seemed keen to try it. I am very happy to say, I'm glad we did.
Les Halles is in a very posh section (well, I guess it all is) of Park Avenue across from the Gansevoort Hotel, a super expensive property. Inside, the place looks like it could be smack in the middle of Les Halles in Paris (an area near the Louvre). The interior has been carefully designed to feel like you could actually be in the 1st Arrondissement.
Enough of about the looks. How about the food you ask? Well, the only problem that I could find with the food, was that damn near every menu item looked amazing (and I wanted them all!). Hardly a problem, is it? To make things easier on some of us, two of my friends and I chose to share our starters and main courses so that we could sample each others dishes. However, I'd like to express thanks to those that didn't enter the pact, but were gracious enough to allow me to taste their dishes for the purpose of this review (you know who you are!).
So, the starters. We chose three for the table to sample. They were: The obligatory Escargots ($9.50), the Terrine Maison ($9.50) and finally the Croûtons de Coulommiers rôtis au miel et poivre (also $9.50).
Let's start with the Terrine. A terrine is a pâté that is usually made from pork, chicken and/or duck liver. In this case, I believe it was a pork/duck combo. It is truly the house terrine... it looks like it could have been made by a French native in their kitchen without much effort. It's texture was very coarse, which didn't take away from the flavor. It was very good and the basket of bread on the table made an excellent place to spread it.
The second, the Croûtons de Coulommiers rôtis au miel et poivre is baked brie (or toasted rather) served on a baguette and topped with miel (honey) and cracked pepper. I have to say this is the one that shocked me and dazzled my tastebuds. This dish could easily be replicated at home... just put the brie, honey, and peppercorns on the bread and whack it in the grill (or broiler). It's sweet and savory blend is right up there with bacon and maple syrup. The best part for one of our diners, it was meat-free.
The last is also the most common appetizer in French establishments, the Escargots (snails). These were pleasantly cooked correctly. Not over-cooked which can leave them rubbery and not nice. They were served super hot, which means they came right out of the oven (as did the brie). Good timing chefs... The one noticeable difference than ones I usually enjoy is that these were a bit less garlicky than normal. However, that didn't take away from them (and if you're on a date, you're better off anyway!).
About the starters, I wanted to get the Onion Soup but because of the humid nastiness outside that day, I couldn't bring myself to do it. This and the pan seared foie gras would be in my hit list for next time's starters.
That aside, it was time for the mains. I will start out by mentioning our vegetarian friend's main first... which was actually a starter, but she'd chosen it because she liked the looks of it. The waiter gave her no guff and happily allowed it... even offering if she'd like to double the order in size in case she wanted more. She declined. She ordered the Ravioli de champignons, sabayon de chèvre (mushroom and goat cheese ravioli). They were cooked nicely. Firm, yet tender. Warning, these are super rich! My friend remarked that while she liked them, she could understand why they were a starter, as this richness is difficult to enjoy after a certain point. She also remarked that they were salty. Personally, I enjoyed them and know that the salt is just a byproduct of the goat cheese, these also had a strong lemon overtone. If you had to compare them to a flavor you all know, it would be similar to a Polish pierogi.
The next dish we'll talk about is the Steak Tartare ($22.00). I love steak tartare and usually I am very peculiar in the places that I order it. This place was too high profile to give any problems. As per usual, it was prepared table side by a waiter (for those that don't know-- this is raw ground beef mixed with a raw egg, herbs and spices). This was pleasantly textured and you could tell it was mixed with a bit of stone ground country mustard, which was nice on the palate.
The third dish we ordered was the Planche de Grillades (mixed grill, $30). This consisted of a steak, lamb chop, merguez, and thick cut bacon served with salad and frites. Firstly, the merguez is a Moroccan Styled lamb sausage which is very popular in Western European cuisine (can someone say, "colonization?"). This was very nicely spiced. Think about a really good bratwurst, then think North African spice... you have the picture. The dish also came with two steaks, Onglet (or Hanger Steak) and regular steak (think steak frites). In addition to these, a lamb chop was also in the mix. I didn't get to try any of these, due to my friend being a known carnivore. However, he said that everything was cooked nicely (and I sincerely trust his judgement). Lastly, a piece of thick-cut slab bacon that was put into the broiler. Very nice. However, I would have to lean towards the bacon at another NYC establishment, Peter Luger's Steak House in Williamsburg. If you're an Albany native, I suggest going to Rolf's Pork Store on Lexington (bring your piece, it's a rough 'hood), and asking the clerk for their bacon. It's of a similar quality of what was served at Les Halles. Overall, this dish is a bargain at the price.
The dish ordered by Yours Truly was the Confit de Canard ($19.50). This dish was chosen purely because I cannot cook it at home (well, I could... but it's a right pain!). The duck leg is allowed to rest in duck fat and then left for at minimum, one whole day. The fat that surrounds the duck meat basically infuses the leg with the best marinade you can dream of. The reason this was done in the past, was out of necessity. Before refrigeration, this is how you preserved the food for the next day or two. The duck meat was divine, fatty deliciousness-- moist, but when the fat gets broiled off, it makes the skin crispy... which is undoubtedly the best part! The potatoes served were like American homefries... cubed little crunchy goodness. This reviewer thinks that these potatoes were fried in duck or goose fat. Trust me, they were not a side... only a compliment to the protein. It is also my belief that this dish was the best bargain of all offered, simply because it's a lot of work.
The last dish that our party ordered was a very simple, yet nicely done was Poulet Rôti (roasted Amish raised chicken, $18.50). The chicken was cooked to perfection. I could barely tell that it was oven cooked because the skin was so crunchy... I even asked James (a friend) for his opinion. This dish was served with frites and a house salad. It is my opinion that our friend ordered this because he was unsure of the other food on the menu. I am not taking away from the quality of this dish, but would definitely order something else... like the Cassoulet (a goose casserole) instead!
Lastly, we washed all of this down with a couple bottles of '08 Lirac, Domaine Lafont. This red wine was from the Southern Rhône Valley and was a perfect pairing for the dishes we ordered. Very smooth like most Red Rhônes from the south. Not terrible at $52/bottle. I would recommend it for meaty dishes.
Dessert? Not happening... we were stuffed. But I can say that I will be trying the Crêpe Suzette or the fromage assortment. I cannot doubt either won't be as good as the dinner (or better)!
Okay, the verdict.... like we always do!
The food is outstanding. Nothing fancy, the wheel is not being reinvented here. What they do well is classic French cuisine at a reasonable price and they do it well. How? They use the best quality ingredients and have a great staff cooking. The service is also outstanding, very attentive. If you're going to be in the NYC area and are wondering, where do I start for food? Right here is my answer to you, faithful readers.
One last bit of info to let you guys know. When we were seated for 7:30p, the restaurant wasn't terribly busy. The crowd of twenty-somethings (and most certainly Food Network aficionados) poured in, shortly thereafter. So, if you want to avoid the evening rush, leave it for 7:30 at latest... otherwise, be prepared to drink more wine and wait a little bit!
Next entry, I will be writing about my London experiences coming soon in a few weeks. I will be attending some of the 2012 Olympic Games. Then keep watch for Portland, Oregon after that. It's time for this Twisted Traveler to get moving again.... Happy eating!
-TT/FF
Just in case you've been living under a rock somewhere for the last five or so years.... Anthony Bourdain is a chef/travel writer/TV celeb that hosts "No Reservations" and more recently, "The Layover" on the Travel Channel. If you've seen him, you either love him or hate him. He's a typical arrogant New Yorker, but with a softer side at times. He is adventurous, nutty and pushes the limits with eating the unusual and rare. He is also very entertaining to watch and read, I can attest to the reading (if you've not picked up his books). Son of an American dad and French mother, his brother and he spent summers abroad in France with relatives. The NYC native no doubt, picked up the skills that were necessary to open a French restaurant in one of the greatest cities in the World.
A friend asked me to accompany her down to the city one night and we decided to meet some friends there for dinner. This restaurant has been on my radar for quite some time... but usually some other event in the city pulls me away from just a calm evening that includes dinner. So I suggested we go, and everyone seemed keen to try it. I am very happy to say, I'm glad we did.
Les Halles is in a very posh section (well, I guess it all is) of Park Avenue across from the Gansevoort Hotel, a super expensive property. Inside, the place looks like it could be smack in the middle of Les Halles in Paris (an area near the Louvre). The interior has been carefully designed to feel like you could actually be in the 1st Arrondissement.
Enough of about the looks. How about the food you ask? Well, the only problem that I could find with the food, was that damn near every menu item looked amazing (and I wanted them all!). Hardly a problem, is it? To make things easier on some of us, two of my friends and I chose to share our starters and main courses so that we could sample each others dishes. However, I'd like to express thanks to those that didn't enter the pact, but were gracious enough to allow me to taste their dishes for the purpose of this review (you know who you are!).
So, the starters. We chose three for the table to sample. They were: The obligatory Escargots ($9.50), the Terrine Maison ($9.50) and finally the Croûtons de Coulommiers rôtis au miel et poivre (also $9.50).
Let's start with the Terrine. A terrine is a pâté that is usually made from pork, chicken and/or duck liver. In this case, I believe it was a pork/duck combo. It is truly the house terrine... it looks like it could have been made by a French native in their kitchen without much effort. It's texture was very coarse, which didn't take away from the flavor. It was very good and the basket of bread on the table made an excellent place to spread it.
The terrine.
The second, the Croûtons de Coulommiers rôtis au miel et poivre is baked brie (or toasted rather) served on a baguette and topped with miel (honey) and cracked pepper. I have to say this is the one that shocked me and dazzled my tastebuds. This dish could easily be replicated at home... just put the brie, honey, and peppercorns on the bread and whack it in the grill (or broiler). It's sweet and savory blend is right up there with bacon and maple syrup. The best part for one of our diners, it was meat-free.
The bread.
The last is also the most common appetizer in French establishments, the Escargots (snails). These were pleasantly cooked correctly. Not over-cooked which can leave them rubbery and not nice. They were served super hot, which means they came right out of the oven (as did the brie). Good timing chefs... The one noticeable difference than ones I usually enjoy is that these were a bit less garlicky than normal. However, that didn't take away from them (and if you're on a date, you're better off anyway!).
About the starters, I wanted to get the Onion Soup but because of the humid nastiness outside that day, I couldn't bring myself to do it. This and the pan seared foie gras would be in my hit list for next time's starters.
That aside, it was time for the mains. I will start out by mentioning our vegetarian friend's main first... which was actually a starter, but she'd chosen it because she liked the looks of it. The waiter gave her no guff and happily allowed it... even offering if she'd like to double the order in size in case she wanted more. She declined. She ordered the Ravioli de champignons, sabayon de chèvre (mushroom and goat cheese ravioli). They were cooked nicely. Firm, yet tender. Warning, these are super rich! My friend remarked that while she liked them, she could understand why they were a starter, as this richness is difficult to enjoy after a certain point. She also remarked that they were salty. Personally, I enjoyed them and know that the salt is just a byproduct of the goat cheese, these also had a strong lemon overtone. If you had to compare them to a flavor you all know, it would be similar to a Polish pierogi.
The next dish we'll talk about is the Steak Tartare ($22.00). I love steak tartare and usually I am very peculiar in the places that I order it. This place was too high profile to give any problems. As per usual, it was prepared table side by a waiter (for those that don't know-- this is raw ground beef mixed with a raw egg, herbs and spices). This was pleasantly textured and you could tell it was mixed with a bit of stone ground country mustard, which was nice on the palate.
The table side prep of the Steak Tartare.
The end result!
The third dish we ordered was the Planche de Grillades (mixed grill, $30). This consisted of a steak, lamb chop, merguez, and thick cut bacon served with salad and frites. Firstly, the merguez is a Moroccan Styled lamb sausage which is very popular in Western European cuisine (can someone say, "colonization?"). This was very nicely spiced. Think about a really good bratwurst, then think North African spice... you have the picture. The dish also came with two steaks, Onglet (or Hanger Steak) and regular steak (think steak frites). In addition to these, a lamb chop was also in the mix. I didn't get to try any of these, due to my friend being a known carnivore. However, he said that everything was cooked nicely (and I sincerely trust his judgement). Lastly, a piece of thick-cut slab bacon that was put into the broiler. Very nice. However, I would have to lean towards the bacon at another NYC establishment, Peter Luger's Steak House in Williamsburg. If you're an Albany native, I suggest going to Rolf's Pork Store on Lexington (bring your piece, it's a rough 'hood), and asking the clerk for their bacon. It's of a similar quality of what was served at Les Halles. Overall, this dish is a bargain at the price.
Mixed grill.
The dish ordered by Yours Truly was the Confit de Canard ($19.50). This dish was chosen purely because I cannot cook it at home (well, I could... but it's a right pain!). The duck leg is allowed to rest in duck fat and then left for at minimum, one whole day. The fat that surrounds the duck meat basically infuses the leg with the best marinade you can dream of. The reason this was done in the past, was out of necessity. Before refrigeration, this is how you preserved the food for the next day or two. The duck meat was divine, fatty deliciousness-- moist, but when the fat gets broiled off, it makes the skin crispy... which is undoubtedly the best part! The potatoes served were like American homefries... cubed little crunchy goodness. This reviewer thinks that these potatoes were fried in duck or goose fat. Trust me, they were not a side... only a compliment to the protein. It is also my belief that this dish was the best bargain of all offered, simply because it's a lot of work.
Confit duck.
The last dish that our party ordered was a very simple, yet nicely done was Poulet Rôti (roasted Amish raised chicken, $18.50). The chicken was cooked to perfection. I could barely tell that it was oven cooked because the skin was so crunchy... I even asked James (a friend) for his opinion. This dish was served with frites and a house salad. It is my opinion that our friend ordered this because he was unsure of the other food on the menu. I am not taking away from the quality of this dish, but would definitely order something else... like the Cassoulet (a goose casserole) instead!
Roasted chicken.
Lastly, we washed all of this down with a couple bottles of '08 Lirac, Domaine Lafont. This red wine was from the Southern Rhône Valley and was a perfect pairing for the dishes we ordered. Very smooth like most Red Rhônes from the south. Not terrible at $52/bottle. I would recommend it for meaty dishes.
Dessert? Not happening... we were stuffed. But I can say that I will be trying the Crêpe Suzette or the fromage assortment. I cannot doubt either won't be as good as the dinner (or better)!
Okay, the verdict.... like we always do!
The damage.
The food is outstanding. Nothing fancy, the wheel is not being reinvented here. What they do well is classic French cuisine at a reasonable price and they do it well. How? They use the best quality ingredients and have a great staff cooking. The service is also outstanding, very attentive. If you're going to be in the NYC area and are wondering, where do I start for food? Right here is my answer to you, faithful readers.
One last bit of info to let you guys know. When we were seated for 7:30p, the restaurant wasn't terribly busy. The crowd of twenty-somethings (and most certainly Food Network aficionados) poured in, shortly thereafter. So, if you want to avoid the evening rush, leave it for 7:30 at latest... otherwise, be prepared to drink more wine and wait a little bit!
Next entry, I will be writing about my London experiences coming soon in a few weeks. I will be attending some of the 2012 Olympic Games. Then keep watch for Portland, Oregon after that. It's time for this Twisted Traveler to get moving again.... Happy eating!
-TT/FF
